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Course on the history and analysis of contemporary fashion

PROGRAM

Theoretical Module 1        

Module 1: Theory HEDONISM IN THE 1980S AND FASHION

Lessons and fundamental concepts Module 1 theory

Describing great Italian and foreign fashion designers, their vision, style, and women's and men's clothing through the presentation of theoretical concepts and images from fashion shows, advertisements, and testimonials.

COURSE PRESENTATION 3 hours

GIORGIO ARMANI AND THE DECONSTRUCTION OF THE JACKET 3 hours

GIANNI VERSACE AND THE MASTERY OF DRESS HC 3 hours

MOSCHINO AND THE ARTISTIC SMILE DRESS 3 hours

FERRE’ AND THE WHITE SHIRT OF THE MYTH 3 hours

VALENTINO GARAVANI AND THE EMPIRE OF RED 3 hours

PRADA AND THE BEAUTY OF BAD TASTE 3 hours

DOLCE&GABBANA AND CLOTHING BETWEEN THE SACRED AND THE PROFANE 3 hours

THE GUCCI CASE BETWEEN HISTORY AND NEW DESIGNERS: FORD, MICHELE, GVASALIA 3 hours

 Module 2 Theory HIGH FASHION: ENHANCING HERITAGE

Lessons and fundamental concepts of theoretical module 2

 CHANEL AND KARL LAGERFELD'S TRIBUTE 3 hours

CHRISTIAN DIOR AND THE TRIBUTE BY FERRE’, GALLIANO, CHIURI, ANDERSON 3 hours

BALENCIAGA AND DEMNA GVASALIA'S TRIBUTE 3 hours

BALMAIN AND OLIVIER ROUSTEING'S TRIBUTE 3 hours

SCHIAPARELLI AND DANIEL ROSEBERRY'S TRIBUTE 3 hours_ JEAN PAUL GAULTIER AND THE LOGIC OF SHARING 3 hours

YVES SAINT LAURENT AND ANTHONY VACCARELLO'S TRIBUTE 3 hours

GIVENCHY AND MATTHEW WILLIAMS' TRIBUTE 3 hours

PIERRE CARDIN AND THE SIDERAL STYLE 3 hours

THIERRY MUGLER AND THE METAPHYSICAL STYLE 3 hours

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN AND HAUTE COUTURE TAILORING 3 hours


Module 3 theory PARALLEL VISIONS

First part of theoretical module 3

Tailoring and Handcrafted, Italian Tailoring

Italian fashion brands known for their craftsmanship and tailoring are renowned for their attention to detail, manual workmanship, and excellent materials.

 CUCINELLI AND THE WORLD OF ART, CRAFTSMANSHIP, AND TAILORING 3 hours

ZEGNA AND THE WORLD'S MOST BEAUTIFUL FABRICS 3 hours

LORO PIANA AND THE COMFORT FASHION STYLE 3 hours

KITON AND MODERN TAILORING 3 hours

ATTOLINI AND IMPECCABLE TAILORING 3 hours

BOTTEGA VENETA AND TAILORED LUXURY 3 hours

Second part of theoretical module 3

Japanese fashion designers

Japanese designers such as Comme des Garçons (Rei Kawakubo) and Yohji Yamamoto are important because they revolutionized the very idea of fashion in the 1980s, bringing a radically different vision to the West. They introduced:

Asymmetry, deconstruction, and irregular volumes, breaking the rules of traditional cutting.

An "anti-fashion" aesthetic, oriented towards black, imperfection, minimalism, and experimentation.

A new relationship between body and clothing, no longer tight-fitting or celebratory, but free, sculptural, conceptual.

Their influence on Western fashion has been enormous: they paved the way for conceptualism in fashion, experimentation with materials, contemporary gender neutrality, and the value of imperfection (wabi-sabi). Many European and American designers—from Margiela to McQueen to today's avant-garde brands—owe a debt to their innovative language.

COMME DES GARCONS AND THE SHAPELESS BLACK SUIT 3 hours

ISSEY MIYAKE AND PLISSE’ 3 hours

YOHJI YAMAMOTO AND NEUTRAL INFORMALITY 3 hours

KENZO AND FANTASY COLOR 3 hours

Terza Parte del modulo teorico 3

The importance of fashion photography

The representation that fashion photographers give to clothing is fundamental because it determines its perception and value in the eyes of the public.

 Today, there are many different photographic languages, and in general, the way we take and use photographs has changed. Perhaps the language of photography has become trivialized, thanks to the use of our smartphones and apps. We all take photos, but the great masters who photographed fashion remain true repositories of creativity, teaching us how to capture the uniqueness of a garment.

It is important for fashion students to be able to interpret languages and observe how useful photography has been to designers.

STEVEN MEISEL AND HIS CHAMELEON-LIKE EYE 3 hours

OLIVIERO TOSCANI AND SOCIAL ISSUES 3 hours

RICHARD AVEDON AND STATUARY BEAUTY 3 hours

HELMUT NEWTON AND FETISHISM 3 hours

DAVID LACHAPELLE AND THE IRONY OF THE SURREAL 3 hours

PAOLO ROVERSI AND THE MAGIC OF THE DREAMLIKE 3 hours

BRUCE WEBER AND THE FASHION REPORT 3 hours

Module 4 Theory WHO DOES WHAT

CREATIVE PROFESSIONS IN FASHION: FASHION STYLIST, CREATIVE DIRECTOR, TAILOR, OR DESIGNER?

WHAT DOES A CREATIVE DIRECTOR DO? 3 hours

BRAND IDENTITY CONCERTATION 3 hours

_COSA FA UNO STYLIST ? 3 ore

THE ROLE IN FASHION SHOWS 3 hours

FASHION FILMS, ADVERTISING, AND SOCIAL MEDIA. NEW COMMUNICATION TOOLS 3 hours

CASE HISTORY ALESSANDRO MICHELE CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF GUCCI AND VALENTINO 3 hours

WHAT DOES A CREATIVE DIRECTOR DO? 3 hours

BRAND IDENTITY CONCERTATION 3 hours

_COSA FA UNO STYLIST ? 3 ore

THE ROLE IN FASHION SHOWS 3 hours

FASHION FILMS, ADVERTISING, AND SOCIAL MEDIA. NEW COMMUNICATION TOOLS 3 hours

CASE HISTORY ALESSANDRO MICHELE CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF GUCCI AND VALENTINO 3 hours

_ LA CONCERTAZIONE DELL’IDENTITA DEL BRAND 3 ore

_COSA FA UNO STYLIST ? 3 ore

_IL RUOLO NELLE SFILATE 3 ore

_ FASHION FILM, PUBBLICITA’ E SOCIAL. NUOVI STRUMENTI DI COMUNICAZIONE 3 ore

PDF slides from the instructor Bibliography and links suggested by the instructor Mariano Scardino Intermediate assessments

sfilata di moda

Course duration 200 hours

A theoretical course focused on the narrative of great fashion designers aims to provide students with a deep understanding of the history, evolution, and cultural impact of fashion through its most influential figures. Students are expected to: Know the protagonists of fashion: understand the creative journey, innovations, and visions of the main designers and photographers who have defined the aesthetics of different eras. Analyze the relationship between fashion, society, and culture: understand how great creatives have interpreted and influenced social, aesthetic, and communicative changes. Develop critical and narrative skills: learn to tell the story of fashion as a cultural phenomenon, constructing coherent and conscious narratives about the works and personalities analyzed. Deepen their understanding of languages and visual codes: comprehend the stylistic, iconographic, and communicative elements used by photographers and designers to build recognizable visual identities. Connect the past and present: recognize the legacy of great masters in contemporary fashion, identifying continuities, breaks, and reinterpretations.